May 30, 2007
I love cappuccinos! The breakfast served at the Hotel Joli included excellent cups of it, accompanied by wonderful breads and jams. We took our sweet time getting ready and didn't actually leave until about 10:30 or so. I bought a pashmina scarf in light blue off the streets, which made me feel really European as I wore it all day :). We were going to just walk by the Castel Sant'Angelo, but it started to rain and we ran inside to avoid the oncoming wetness.
Everyone should take unexpected detours--those always turn out to be the most fun. We wandered up and down its halls for hours in search of fun, and we found it! Ancient paintings, echoing tunnels, and views of Rome that will make your jaws drop--amazing! We walked all the way up to the terrace on top and saw St. Peter's, the Pantheon, and the Seven Hills of Rome from the top. The history of the place is fascinating. It was built by Emperor Hadrian in 139 AD because tombs weren't allowed inside Roman city walls, so he went right across the river and built a huge one in plain sight. Emperors were buried here for at least 100 years, and popes used it as a hideaway when the city was under attack.
We grabbed Italian fast food along the way (two huge slices of pizza, even when I only asked for one), and we got lost trying to find the Pantheon. We ended up by a cat sanctuary (don't ask) in the middle of the street, where we asked an old British couple in bright yellow raincoats how to get there. The lady kept making comments about how it was "good to see Americans traveling again" and such, but she was cute enough that we didn't mind. The Pantheon, when we found it, was well worth the confusion. It has an open hole in the top that spans 70 feet in diameter, and it is absolutely breathtaking! It turns out that it wasn't until Brunelleschi's dome in Florence that people closed up their huge domes--too unstable. It's apparently a very popular hangout when it rains.
We saw glimpes of the Roman Forum, but it had begun to rain again, so we bypassed it in favor of the Colosseum. You should have seen my group's faces when they saw it for the first time! It was beautiful all over again, and we climbed up to the second story in it this time--and the old British couple was there AGAIN! This time they said, in a roundabout way that wasn't so roundabout, that young people take things for granted and don't appreciate history: "thirty minutes to see twenty-five generations--you're improving." Hey, thirty minutes is pretty dang good by tired teenagers in the rain, thank you very much! My group was nice enough to follow me to the Circus Maximus for our last stop, which was where chariot races occurred (Ben Hur, anyone?). Five Colosseums fit into its massive length, and today people jog its grassy paths like they don't realize they're on top of a chariot circle.
Dinner was exceptionally fun--our waiter was a shameless flirt who took particular liking to Bekah and Hillary, and he kept saying that he cooked our food for us himself--he even cooked my salad, apparently :). We ate outside, and it was a great way to relax after a long day of walking and sightseeing. We fell into bed early again, ready to head home to Sansepolcro the next day.
giovedì 31 maggio 2007
When in Rome...
May 29, 2007
Rome is a HUGE metropolis--home to 2.6 million people, it is made up by miles and miles of cobblestone streets that wind their way through the seven hills, past the colosseum, and straight past my hotel. We were up by 6:20 AM, a ridiculously early time for us who needed about 3 days worth of pure sleep, and we checked out and headed to the Vatican. I participated in my first bargaining bit quite unintentionally when I thought the hotel was trying to charge us an exhorbitant price for our rooms--50€ for THAT place? Our toilet wouldn't even stop running! Out of pure shock I said, "what?!" and walked away to figure it out, only to realize that we had agreed to that price in the first place in a fit of sheer desperation for a place. I was heading out to apologize and pay the man when Hillary walked in a told me he had just dropped the price by 10 € per person! YAY! Never settle when you can bargain!
We took the Metro to the Vatican, and I looked like a deformed turtle with my green backpack settled firmly on my front as caution against pickpockets. We arrived at the Vatican by 7:30, and the doors opened at 8:45--while most tourists arrive later and stand in line for 2-3 hours, we got in within fifteen minutes of the doors opening. Go us! It started raining halfway through our wait, however, and we huddled together for warmth. Mer, I'm so glad you told me to bring that rainjacket--it was needed today!
The Vatican was wonderful, and I saw the Egyptian exhibit! The Sistine Chapel was disappointing again, people crowded together like a herd of cattle and yelled at by the guards: "NO FLASH!" We escaped out a side passage and ended up in the stunning St. Peter's Basilica, the largest church in the world. The immortal Rick Steves said that St. Peter's can accomodate 95,000 worshippers--the church is six acres large! My house fits into a mosaic chip, probably! It was absolutely beautiful, and I loved it--I saw a nun wearing an audioguide, and my adoration was hooked.
We found our next hotel, the Hotel Joli, after lunch, and I recommend that place to anyone staying in Rome. A five-person room with a private bath, breakfast included, and a view of St. Peter's from the window was only 35€ a night--excellent! We took a nap and headed back out, finding the Piazza del Popolo, which has Egyptian monuments, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and the Capuchin Crypt. The Capuchin Crypt houses altars made from the bones of the Capuchin monks, beautiful works of art that are incredibly creepy at the same time. I will leave you with the words in the final room of the crypt:
We were what you are
You will become what we are now.
Rome is a HUGE metropolis--home to 2.6 million people, it is made up by miles and miles of cobblestone streets that wind their way through the seven hills, past the colosseum, and straight past my hotel. We were up by 6:20 AM, a ridiculously early time for us who needed about 3 days worth of pure sleep, and we checked out and headed to the Vatican. I participated in my first bargaining bit quite unintentionally when I thought the hotel was trying to charge us an exhorbitant price for our rooms--50€ for THAT place? Our toilet wouldn't even stop running! Out of pure shock I said, "what?!" and walked away to figure it out, only to realize that we had agreed to that price in the first place in a fit of sheer desperation for a place. I was heading out to apologize and pay the man when Hillary walked in a told me he had just dropped the price by 10 € per person! YAY! Never settle when you can bargain!
We took the Metro to the Vatican, and I looked like a deformed turtle with my green backpack settled firmly on my front as caution against pickpockets. We arrived at the Vatican by 7:30, and the doors opened at 8:45--while most tourists arrive later and stand in line for 2-3 hours, we got in within fifteen minutes of the doors opening. Go us! It started raining halfway through our wait, however, and we huddled together for warmth. Mer, I'm so glad you told me to bring that rainjacket--it was needed today!
The Vatican was wonderful, and I saw the Egyptian exhibit! The Sistine Chapel was disappointing again, people crowded together like a herd of cattle and yelled at by the guards: "NO FLASH!" We escaped out a side passage and ended up in the stunning St. Peter's Basilica, the largest church in the world. The immortal Rick Steves said that St. Peter's can accomodate 95,000 worshippers--the church is six acres large! My house fits into a mosaic chip, probably! It was absolutely beautiful, and I loved it--I saw a nun wearing an audioguide, and my adoration was hooked.
We found our next hotel, the Hotel Joli, after lunch, and I recommend that place to anyone staying in Rome. A five-person room with a private bath, breakfast included, and a view of St. Peter's from the window was only 35€ a night--excellent! We took a nap and headed back out, finding the Piazza del Popolo, which has Egyptian monuments, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and the Capuchin Crypt. The Capuchin Crypt houses altars made from the bones of the Capuchin monks, beautiful works of art that are incredibly creepy at the same time. I will leave you with the words in the final room of the crypt:
We were what you are
You will become what we are now.
I Packed That, Right?
May 28, 2007
Laboratory scientists would have had a field day this morning if we were their lab rats. We scurried frantically to and fo as we packed our bags for Rome, cleaned our rooms, took off our sheets, and prepared for departure. Classes crawled as we waited for lunch and the bus, and then we were on our way! An hour on the bus, 2.5 hours on the train, and several delays put us in Rome by late afternoon, and we took our bags to our hotel for the night. We bought a Roma Pass, which I recommend for all going to Rome for 2-3 days, and then we tried to find a small, non-touristy eating spot for the evening. However, every other tourist in Rome had the same idea, and we ended up in a nice restaurant surrounded by Americans. A couple from Boston on their honeymoon sat behind us, and the lady opened our bottle of water when we couldn't get it ("I have strong hands," she said, and tore the bottle from poor Hillary's grasp). We were too tired to find any landmarks that night, and we were asleep by 9:30 pm.
Laboratory scientists would have had a field day this morning if we were their lab rats. We scurried frantically to and fo as we packed our bags for Rome, cleaned our rooms, took off our sheets, and prepared for departure. Classes crawled as we waited for lunch and the bus, and then we were on our way! An hour on the bus, 2.5 hours on the train, and several delays put us in Rome by late afternoon, and we took our bags to our hotel for the night. We bought a Roma Pass, which I recommend for all going to Rome for 2-3 days, and then we tried to find a small, non-touristy eating spot for the evening. However, every other tourist in Rome had the same idea, and we ended up in a nice restaurant surrounded by Americans. A couple from Boston on their honeymoon sat behind us, and the lady opened our bottle of water when we couldn't get it ("I have strong hands," she said, and tore the bottle from poor Hillary's grasp). We were too tired to find any landmarks that night, and we were asleep by 9:30 pm.
Yes, Homework Exists in Italy. :(
May 27, 2007
I wrote a paper today discussing the medieval Christian view of what constitutes the Good Life vs. the renaissance humanist view. Certainly not the most exciting thing, but it's not called STUDY Abroad for nothing.
I also visited the cemetery in Sansepolcro, which is beautiful and serene. Multiple people are buried in the same grave many times, and their pictures are placed on the tombstones in a very personal manner. I noticed one grave had the statue of a dancing girl on it, so I went to look more closely at it, only to find out that it was the grave of my host family's daughter! Absolutely weird, but easily the most beautiful and touching grave in the cemetery.
I also bought stuff at an antique fair and had the world's best hot chocolate at a place called the Happy Bar, where I sat outside and drank it while doing homework. Molto Bene!
I wrote a paper today discussing the medieval Christian view of what constitutes the Good Life vs. the renaissance humanist view. Certainly not the most exciting thing, but it's not called STUDY Abroad for nothing.
I also visited the cemetery in Sansepolcro, which is beautiful and serene. Multiple people are buried in the same grave many times, and their pictures are placed on the tombstones in a very personal manner. I noticed one grave had the statue of a dancing girl on it, so I went to look more closely at it, only to find out that it was the grave of my host family's daughter! Absolutely weird, but easily the most beautiful and touching grave in the cemetery.
I also bought stuff at an antique fair and had the world's best hot chocolate at a place called the Happy Bar, where I sat outside and drank it while doing homework. Molto Bene!
Ancient Hilltops and City Streets
May 26, 2007
Our second day trip, this time on the way to Anghiari and Arezzo, two Tuscan towns/small cities that are the quintessential Italian beauties. Anghiari, a medieval town perched precariously on the hills surrounding the valley of Sansepolcro, is picture perfect with its towers and turrets standing proudly behind ancient stone walls. The streets feel almost vertical at times, and if I don't have great legs by the end of this trip, somebody's going to be hearing from me.
We visited two churches and a museum while at Anghiari, the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie and another church, and the Casa Palazzo Taglieschi Museo Statale museum. The first church housed the body of St. Hippolitus in a glass coffin, and he was decked out in simple regalia. However, the coffin was awfully short, and I'm guessing that they split him in half to get him in there--his hands were HUGE!!! The museum mixed modern and ancient works throughout the first several rooms, and it wound its way through an ancient nobleman's house that took up several floors. It housed several beautiful statues of the Madonna, and paintings and della Robias filled every room. I highly recommend it!
Bekah, Hillary, and I ended up wandering through the winding streets in search of adventure, and we certainly found it. As usual, I had to find a little lady's room, and the town map pointed at one not thirty feet away. However, that map and I disagreed over what exactly constituted a "bathroom." While the map had "WC" emblazoned across it, accompanied by a miniature picture of the traditional Toilet Man and Toilet Woman, the actual bathroom was hidden behind dumpsters in a dirty parking lot with only three fly-ridden urinals to its measly title. I screeched and ran, eventually finding solace in a gelatteria that kindly let me use its toilet. Adventure? I think so!
The bus took us next to Arezzo, a major cultural and artistic center during the Renaissance. Francesco Petrarch was born here in 1304, and the city was controlled by the Medici until the eighteenth century. We had lunch in a beautiful little pizzeria, and halfway through a gypsy walked in and asked the customers for mony, shaking her little plastic cup for coins. She was ill-kempt and ragged in her dirty clothes and unwashed hair, and many customers turned away from her in disgust. Travelers are taught to be on guard for these gypsies because of their overwhelming reputation as thieves, which can be a true statement. However, what most people don't realize is that the treatment of gypsies is one of the biggest civil rights violations in the world. This entire race is segregated and discriminated against, many of the children being barred from their school cafeterias and gymnasiums just because they are different. Most don't have any education past the age of fifteen, and even then they are only given janitorial jobs--if they're lucky. Their society is fiercely patriarchal, and many of the women cannot even keep the money they earn. Don't let your guard down and keep your purse close, but remember that compassion can go a long way.
We saw the piazza where part of Life is Beautiful is filmed, and Bekah and I hiked to the Cathedral and park on top of the hill. We then saw Piero's The Legend of the True Cross, which I highly recommend you look up--the legend behind the painting is as interesting as the work itself. We also saw the museum, and within it was Piero's famous Duke and Duchess of Urbino, which you'll recognize on sight if you took World Civ in tenth grade.
It was a ridiculously tiring day, but it was absolutely worth it. Visit those two towns if you ever get the chance, because you'll NEVER regret it.
Our second day trip, this time on the way to Anghiari and Arezzo, two Tuscan towns/small cities that are the quintessential Italian beauties. Anghiari, a medieval town perched precariously on the hills surrounding the valley of Sansepolcro, is picture perfect with its towers and turrets standing proudly behind ancient stone walls. The streets feel almost vertical at times, and if I don't have great legs by the end of this trip, somebody's going to be hearing from me.
We visited two churches and a museum while at Anghiari, the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie and another church, and the Casa Palazzo Taglieschi Museo Statale museum. The first church housed the body of St. Hippolitus in a glass coffin, and he was decked out in simple regalia. However, the coffin was awfully short, and I'm guessing that they split him in half to get him in there--his hands were HUGE!!! The museum mixed modern and ancient works throughout the first several rooms, and it wound its way through an ancient nobleman's house that took up several floors. It housed several beautiful statues of the Madonna, and paintings and della Robias filled every room. I highly recommend it!
Bekah, Hillary, and I ended up wandering through the winding streets in search of adventure, and we certainly found it. As usual, I had to find a little lady's room, and the town map pointed at one not thirty feet away. However, that map and I disagreed over what exactly constituted a "bathroom." While the map had "WC" emblazoned across it, accompanied by a miniature picture of the traditional Toilet Man and Toilet Woman, the actual bathroom was hidden behind dumpsters in a dirty parking lot with only three fly-ridden urinals to its measly title. I screeched and ran, eventually finding solace in a gelatteria that kindly let me use its toilet. Adventure? I think so!
The bus took us next to Arezzo, a major cultural and artistic center during the Renaissance. Francesco Petrarch was born here in 1304, and the city was controlled by the Medici until the eighteenth century. We had lunch in a beautiful little pizzeria, and halfway through a gypsy walked in and asked the customers for mony, shaking her little plastic cup for coins. She was ill-kempt and ragged in her dirty clothes and unwashed hair, and many customers turned away from her in disgust. Travelers are taught to be on guard for these gypsies because of their overwhelming reputation as thieves, which can be a true statement. However, what most people don't realize is that the treatment of gypsies is one of the biggest civil rights violations in the world. This entire race is segregated and discriminated against, many of the children being barred from their school cafeterias and gymnasiums just because they are different. Most don't have any education past the age of fifteen, and even then they are only given janitorial jobs--if they're lucky. Their society is fiercely patriarchal, and many of the women cannot even keep the money they earn. Don't let your guard down and keep your purse close, but remember that compassion can go a long way.
We saw the piazza where part of Life is Beautiful is filmed, and Bekah and I hiked to the Cathedral and park on top of the hill. We then saw Piero's The Legend of the True Cross, which I highly recommend you look up--the legend behind the painting is as interesting as the work itself. We also saw the museum, and within it was Piero's famous Duke and Duchess of Urbino, which you'll recognize on sight if you took World Civ in tenth grade.
It was a ridiculously tiring day, but it was absolutely worth it. Visit those two towns if you ever get the chance, because you'll NEVER regret it.
"Rabbit" is "Cognilio" in Italian--I Think
It rained today, large, fat raindrops that splashed against the ground and scattered underneath your umbrella, soaking anything that was once dry and clean. Sansepolcro is just as beautiful when it rains, it seems.
We visited the Museo Civico in Sansepolcro today, the local museum that houses a wealth of wonderful nooks and crannies that are filled with interesting paintings and artifacts. Piero della Francesca, an early Renaissance artist who used mathematical precision to perfect his work, was a man of Sansepolcro and is greatly praised in this city. We saw several of his works, and the serene tranquility of the characters' expressions are astounding. His works religious in nature, and his is able to incorporate so many mathematical elements into his paintings that they are almost frighteningly symmetrical--I can't even draw a straight line with a ruler. He also painted Legend of the True Cross in Arezzo, and I highly encourage you to look him up online. I wasn't a big fan of his work at first, but I greatly appreciate it now.
I enjoyed the exhibit under the museum even more than the paintings within it--beneath the museum are ancient tunnels that house old keys, locks, clerical robes, and, my favorite, relics. The locks were so intricate during the Middle Ages and Renaissance! They were heavy and thick, and geometric or flowering designs of varying widths and lengths were used to individualize the locks. The keys were heavy and even more intricate than their matches.
We had dinner with our host families for the first time tonight. We were put in groups of two and a family from Sansepolcro would take us into their house for a traditional Italian dinner to help us get a greater feel for the culture. Jen and I were picked up by Loredagnia and Roberto, an elderly couple in which only Loredagnia spoke any English, and they packed us away in their miniscule car and drove us to their house, situated near the Buitoni Factory. Loredagnia has been studying English for ten years and hosting students from Meredith for that length of period, and she was incredibly welcoming and sweet. Her husband, Roberto, was the wisecrack of the family and made us feel instantly at home by teasing everyone within sight. He didn't speak any English, but he more than made up for it with a nice, two-hour game of charades. Living with them was Roberto's sister; Loredagnia and Roberto's son, Matteo; Matteo's wife; and Matteo's seventeen-month-old son, Andrea, who was the cutest thing I have EVER seen--big brown eyes that light up when he smiles and a swift little gait that has him running into the dog more than anything else.
They made us a wonderful dinner of crostinis with meat; risos with vegetables; rabbit and chicken with roasted vegetables; and fresh cherries for dessert. Jen had coffee, but I declined because of the sheer strength of Italian coffee in general. Instead, Roberto ended up tricking me into trying his brandy--blech! I got some great pictures, though :) They gave us a tour of their home and showed us a beautiful picture of their daughter, who was killed in an automobile accident in 2000. The driving is quite dangerous in Italy and street lights are optional, so it's a tragic truth of Italian life. Roberto and Loredagnia drove us back to our home and kissed our cheeks in farewell, and we promised to walk the passaggiate with them next week. I love them already!
We visited the Museo Civico in Sansepolcro today, the local museum that houses a wealth of wonderful nooks and crannies that are filled with interesting paintings and artifacts. Piero della Francesca, an early Renaissance artist who used mathematical precision to perfect his work, was a man of Sansepolcro and is greatly praised in this city. We saw several of his works, and the serene tranquility of the characters' expressions are astounding. His works religious in nature, and his is able to incorporate so many mathematical elements into his paintings that they are almost frighteningly symmetrical--I can't even draw a straight line with a ruler. He also painted Legend of the True Cross in Arezzo, and I highly encourage you to look him up online. I wasn't a big fan of his work at first, but I greatly appreciate it now.
I enjoyed the exhibit under the museum even more than the paintings within it--beneath the museum are ancient tunnels that house old keys, locks, clerical robes, and, my favorite, relics. The locks were so intricate during the Middle Ages and Renaissance! They were heavy and thick, and geometric or flowering designs of varying widths and lengths were used to individualize the locks. The keys were heavy and even more intricate than their matches.
We had dinner with our host families for the first time tonight. We were put in groups of two and a family from Sansepolcro would take us into their house for a traditional Italian dinner to help us get a greater feel for the culture. Jen and I were picked up by Loredagnia and Roberto, an elderly couple in which only Loredagnia spoke any English, and they packed us away in their miniscule car and drove us to their house, situated near the Buitoni Factory. Loredagnia has been studying English for ten years and hosting students from Meredith for that length of period, and she was incredibly welcoming and sweet. Her husband, Roberto, was the wisecrack of the family and made us feel instantly at home by teasing everyone within sight. He didn't speak any English, but he more than made up for it with a nice, two-hour game of charades. Living with them was Roberto's sister; Loredagnia and Roberto's son, Matteo; Matteo's wife; and Matteo's seventeen-month-old son, Andrea, who was the cutest thing I have EVER seen--big brown eyes that light up when he smiles and a swift little gait that has him running into the dog more than anything else.
They made us a wonderful dinner of crostinis with meat; risos with vegetables; rabbit and chicken with roasted vegetables; and fresh cherries for dessert. Jen had coffee, but I declined because of the sheer strength of Italian coffee in general. Instead, Roberto ended up tricking me into trying his brandy--blech! I got some great pictures, though :) They gave us a tour of their home and showed us a beautiful picture of their daughter, who was killed in an automobile accident in 2000. The driving is quite dangerous in Italy and street lights are optional, so it's a tragic truth of Italian life. Roberto and Loredagnia drove us back to our home and kissed our cheeks in farewell, and we promised to walk the passaggiate with them next week. I love them already!
venerdì 25 maggio 2007
Firenze: the Duomo, the David, and the--Tourists?
May 24, 2007
We got up at the crack of dawn and headed down to the local bus station to ride the twenty minutes to Arezzo. In that six-minute walk I forgot my bus tickets, panicked, almost got hit by a vespa--talk about a morning of accomplishment! Dr. Oatsvall was nice enough to give me one of her tickets, and I bought more in Arezzo. The ride is an hour long and takes you up a winding, mountainous road to the small, urbanized town/city, and even dramamine couldn't keep my stomach settled. But the views! Imagine driving coming upon Anghiari before passing through it, its ancient stone walls jutting out over the edge of a cliff; small villas peek at you through lush trees, and poppies burst into crimson bloom in the fallow fields left dormant for the season.
I saw nothing of Arezzo--we high-tailed it into the station and onto the train to Florence, or Firenze, which took us another hour. We arrived in the crowded Santa Maria Novella train station, and we walked into absolute madness. I have been to Florence before, having taken a trip with twenty others just out of high school through six countries (including Italy) in just ten days. I loved the afternoon I was in Florence, because the towering Duomo and Baptistry, the Santa Croce, and Michaelangelo's David were stunning.
This time, however, all I could think about, as I stepped into the sweltering sun on the crowded Florentine street, was how I missed the quiet vibrancy of Sansepolcro. Florence takes a mallet and smacks you in the face with it, its urban feeling and abundance of tourists taking over the roadways and blocking traffic with tour buses. The sights were gorgeous, but the crowds took some getting used to. The Meredith group split into smaller numbers after arriving at the Duomo, of which I was very thankful--the tour groups are large and pickpockets frequently "brush" by them. I traveled with four, and later two, other girls as we walked toward the Ponte Vecchio, the beautiful bridge lined with shops that crosses the river. However, halfway through walking there I realized that I remembered the route to the piazza otuside the Palazzo Vechio, and I took us on a nice detour that ended up in the correct spot--problem was, we couldn't get to it! The square was blocked off by barriers and police cars, and after asking around we realized that the Italian president, Giorgio Napolitano, was inside! We waited around to see if he would come out, but the wait was cutting into our other time, so we left.
We headed to the Science Academy, and our group split up into those wanting to see the academy and those wanting to grab lunch. I joined the Academy group, and we saw huge astrolabes, sundials, compasses, everything! The globe room was amazing, with a globe twice as tall and round as us in there, its many interlocking links made of gold and bronze. There was a whole room dedicated to immensely huge telescopes, and another one houses medical instruments, including early microscopes. My favorite part was seeing Galileo's middle finger encased as a relic with his instruments--it's only a bone now, but it sticks straight up like it wants to "politely" make you leave. We eventually followed his advice and left, eating at a small cafe across the street with some of the first cold water I've had in Europe--it was glorious, especially for an ice hog like myself!
We had a 12:45 appointment with the Uffizi, and on the way back to it we realized that the crowd around the Palazzo Vecchio had not dispersed--if anything, it had only gotten larger! We squished our way through the crowds (clutching our purses and on the lookout for gypsies) to a nearby stair, and we actually got pictures of the president coming out! I SAW THE ITALIAN PRESIDENT IN FLORENCE! We finally made our appointment and entered the Uffizi, a former Medici office building that now houses the greatest collection of Italian art in the world. It was huge, and we had an arduous worksheet to fill out, but I saw Rembrandt, Da Vinci, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli, everyone there! I even saw The Birth of Venus!!!!
Bekah, Hillary, and I eventually left the Uffizi and wandered through the streets, eating some gelato on the way. Florence is the birthplace of gelato, and Rick Steves (my hero) said we HAVE to eat some there. I got Tartufo and Bancio, and the tartufo definitely had alcohol in it :). We eventually wandered back to the train station, our feet aching and our bodies sweaty, and we took the train and bus back to Sansepolcro--I slept for half the trip. After we arrived, the three of us ate at the Trattoria Pizzeria off the piazza, and we each had a glass of white wine. It went wonderfully with the meal (spinach ravioli), and it was a great first-time experience. Homework and exhausted sleep followed in quick succession (sleep was my favorite part).
When in Florence, watch out for the pickpockets and tourist groups. Stay to the back alleyways and get lost, because it's so much fun to navigate your way to saner ground!
We got up at the crack of dawn and headed down to the local bus station to ride the twenty minutes to Arezzo. In that six-minute walk I forgot my bus tickets, panicked, almost got hit by a vespa--talk about a morning of accomplishment! Dr. Oatsvall was nice enough to give me one of her tickets, and I bought more in Arezzo. The ride is an hour long and takes you up a winding, mountainous road to the small, urbanized town/city, and even dramamine couldn't keep my stomach settled. But the views! Imagine driving coming upon Anghiari before passing through it, its ancient stone walls jutting out over the edge of a cliff; small villas peek at you through lush trees, and poppies burst into crimson bloom in the fallow fields left dormant for the season.
I saw nothing of Arezzo--we high-tailed it into the station and onto the train to Florence, or Firenze, which took us another hour. We arrived in the crowded Santa Maria Novella train station, and we walked into absolute madness. I have been to Florence before, having taken a trip with twenty others just out of high school through six countries (including Italy) in just ten days. I loved the afternoon I was in Florence, because the towering Duomo and Baptistry, the Santa Croce, and Michaelangelo's David were stunning.
This time, however, all I could think about, as I stepped into the sweltering sun on the crowded Florentine street, was how I missed the quiet vibrancy of Sansepolcro. Florence takes a mallet and smacks you in the face with it, its urban feeling and abundance of tourists taking over the roadways and blocking traffic with tour buses. The sights were gorgeous, but the crowds took some getting used to. The Meredith group split into smaller numbers after arriving at the Duomo, of which I was very thankful--the tour groups are large and pickpockets frequently "brush" by them. I traveled with four, and later two, other girls as we walked toward the Ponte Vecchio, the beautiful bridge lined with shops that crosses the river. However, halfway through walking there I realized that I remembered the route to the piazza otuside the Palazzo Vechio, and I took us on a nice detour that ended up in the correct spot--problem was, we couldn't get to it! The square was blocked off by barriers and police cars, and after asking around we realized that the Italian president, Giorgio Napolitano, was inside! We waited around to see if he would come out, but the wait was cutting into our other time, so we left.
We headed to the Science Academy, and our group split up into those wanting to see the academy and those wanting to grab lunch. I joined the Academy group, and we saw huge astrolabes, sundials, compasses, everything! The globe room was amazing, with a globe twice as tall and round as us in there, its many interlocking links made of gold and bronze. There was a whole room dedicated to immensely huge telescopes, and another one houses medical instruments, including early microscopes. My favorite part was seeing Galileo's middle finger encased as a relic with his instruments--it's only a bone now, but it sticks straight up like it wants to "politely" make you leave. We eventually followed his advice and left, eating at a small cafe across the street with some of the first cold water I've had in Europe--it was glorious, especially for an ice hog like myself!
We had a 12:45 appointment with the Uffizi, and on the way back to it we realized that the crowd around the Palazzo Vecchio had not dispersed--if anything, it had only gotten larger! We squished our way through the crowds (clutching our purses and on the lookout for gypsies) to a nearby stair, and we actually got pictures of the president coming out! I SAW THE ITALIAN PRESIDENT IN FLORENCE! We finally made our appointment and entered the Uffizi, a former Medici office building that now houses the greatest collection of Italian art in the world. It was huge, and we had an arduous worksheet to fill out, but I saw Rembrandt, Da Vinci, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli, everyone there! I even saw The Birth of Venus!!!!
Bekah, Hillary, and I eventually left the Uffizi and wandered through the streets, eating some gelato on the way. Florence is the birthplace of gelato, and Rick Steves (my hero) said we HAVE to eat some there. I got Tartufo and Bancio, and the tartufo definitely had alcohol in it :). We eventually wandered back to the train station, our feet aching and our bodies sweaty, and we took the train and bus back to Sansepolcro--I slept for half the trip. After we arrived, the three of us ate at the Trattoria Pizzeria off the piazza, and we each had a glass of white wine. It went wonderfully with the meal (spinach ravioli), and it was a great first-time experience. Homework and exhausted sleep followed in quick succession (sleep was my favorite part).
When in Florence, watch out for the pickpockets and tourist groups. Stay to the back alleyways and get lost, because it's so much fun to navigate your way to saner ground!
Camilla the Attack Turtle
May 23, 2007
It started out as a normal day in Sansepolcro. We had a delicious breakfast (I had English Breakfast tea accompanying it, in preparation for the next half of my journey), followed by several hours of classes. The homework level continues to increase, but I'm learning so much! I've got survival Italian, taught by the wonderful Sarah, a resident of Sansepolcro who has been teaching the Meredith Abroad students some Italian for the fifteen years our program has been stationed in this town (our arrival was announced to the town by the local newspaper, by the way--we're celebrities!). IDS is my Core 200 class, wherein I'm learning all about Italian culture and history. Did you know that many traditional Italians consider it bad manners to fold your hands in your lap when at the table? They rest their forearms on the table as they relax and wait for dinner or refreshments. In History of the Renaissance and Reformation, we're currently focusing on the development of humanism as it grew out of traditional medieval ideals, and I'm about to write a paper comparing the medieval and humanistic views of the "Good Life" (feel free to leave ideas or comments to help me with this).
That afternoon, the professors took us to the home of Barbara Chimenti, a talented local jewelrymaker in Sansepolcro who may soon go international--and if she does, I've got her work! :) She makes stunning silver jewelry and sells it from her front living room, and her family welcomed us into their home with smiles and refreshments. However, we had a bit of trouble making it to her front door--her father keeps a pet turtle, named Camilla, who runs at you as you open the gate and tries to bite your toes! Wear close-toed shoes if you go. It was funny at first, watching her climb over people's covered feet, but then she cornered us as we tried to leave the place! We couldn't get the gate to open, and she is surprisingly fast for a turtle. I'm pretty sure we awoke anyone napping in the 100-mile vicinity.
I'm in a beautiful Italian town, with wonderful people and gorgeous weather, and what do I write about? Getting attacked by a turtle.
It started out as a normal day in Sansepolcro. We had a delicious breakfast (I had English Breakfast tea accompanying it, in preparation for the next half of my journey), followed by several hours of classes. The homework level continues to increase, but I'm learning so much! I've got survival Italian, taught by the wonderful Sarah, a resident of Sansepolcro who has been teaching the Meredith Abroad students some Italian for the fifteen years our program has been stationed in this town (our arrival was announced to the town by the local newspaper, by the way--we're celebrities!). IDS is my Core 200 class, wherein I'm learning all about Italian culture and history. Did you know that many traditional Italians consider it bad manners to fold your hands in your lap when at the table? They rest their forearms on the table as they relax and wait for dinner or refreshments. In History of the Renaissance and Reformation, we're currently focusing on the development of humanism as it grew out of traditional medieval ideals, and I'm about to write a paper comparing the medieval and humanistic views of the "Good Life" (feel free to leave ideas or comments to help me with this).
That afternoon, the professors took us to the home of Barbara Chimenti, a talented local jewelrymaker in Sansepolcro who may soon go international--and if she does, I've got her work! :) She makes stunning silver jewelry and sells it from her front living room, and her family welcomed us into their home with smiles and refreshments. However, we had a bit of trouble making it to her front door--her father keeps a pet turtle, named Camilla, who runs at you as you open the gate and tries to bite your toes! Wear close-toed shoes if you go. It was funny at first, watching her climb over people's covered feet, but then she cornered us as we tried to leave the place! We couldn't get the gate to open, and she is surprisingly fast for a turtle. I'm pretty sure we awoke anyone napping in the 100-mile vicinity.
I'm in a beautiful Italian town, with wonderful people and gorgeous weather, and what do I write about? Getting attacked by a turtle.
giovedì 24 maggio 2007
Molto Bene, Buitoni!
May 22, 2007
Classes were partially interrupted today for a tour of the Buitoni factory in a wonderful follow-up of yesterday's visit to Casa Buitoni. The factory is the second largest Buitoni factory in Italy with around 500 employees, and it is the biggest employer in Sansepolcro. The original factory was originally near the piazza, but it has since moved to its current location further away from the town center. After donning rather snazzy-looking paper jackets and shower-caps, we toured the pasta and bakery sections of the factory. It was so humid in the pasta section! Machines loomed over us and we could barely hear one another in the factory--they mixed the ingredients, formed it into pastas, and cut it into tiny shapes before cooking it, drying it, and packing/shipping it out to the stores. The bakery section was slightly less humid, but every drop of water missed was made up for tenfold by heat. We saw the ingredients mixed, kneaded, cooked, cooled, cut, toasted, packaged, and shipped, all from this one plant--it was amazing!
Classes were partially interrupted today for a tour of the Buitoni factory in a wonderful follow-up of yesterday's visit to Casa Buitoni. The factory is the second largest Buitoni factory in Italy with around 500 employees, and it is the biggest employer in Sansepolcro. The original factory was originally near the piazza, but it has since moved to its current location further away from the town center. After donning rather snazzy-looking paper jackets and shower-caps, we toured the pasta and bakery sections of the factory. It was so humid in the pasta section! Machines loomed over us and we could barely hear one another in the factory--they mixed the ingredients, formed it into pastas, and cut it into tiny shapes before cooking it, drying it, and packing/shipping it out to the stores. The bakery section was slightly less humid, but every drop of water missed was made up for tenfold by heat. We saw the ingredients mixed, kneaded, cooked, cooled, cut, toasted, packaged, and shipped, all from this one plant--it was amazing!
Buitoni Bounty
May 21, 2007
Casa Buitoni is the PR and experimentation headquarters for the Buitoni company, an international pasta/bakery company that originated in Sansepolcro under the entrepreneurship of Mama Guilia in 1827. The company became internationally recognized after Nestle bought it and enlarged it; its second-largest factory is stationed right here in Sansepolcro. The villa, built in the early 1800s in the neoclassical style, was bought by Buitoni in late 1980s for its new public headquarters--you can see a picture of it on the Buitoni packages (all of them are green, by the way).
The hike was arduous and took us halfway up a mountain, but it was completely worth it--we could see the entirety of Sansepolcro from up there in a stunning panoramic view, the sun glinting off the red-tile roofs and verdant greenery. We took a tour of the casa and saw its experimentation kitchen, and then they served us a plethora of their experiments for lunch. Our professor had told us that it might be only appetizers or light snacks, but it was a full-on meal, with fresh fruit and torte for dessert! Afterwards, a local Italian, Andrea, sang several opera songs to us, and fellow-traveler Stacie followed up with two arias. We then serenaded Andrea and the members of Casa Buitoni with several good ol' American classics ("Johnny Appleseed," "Amazing Grace," and "God Bless America").
The end of our adventure eventually arrived, but homework and classes awaited us. Our two last travelers joined us later in the day, exhausted from their trials and tribulations created by navigating Italian trains and buses.
Casa Buitoni is the PR and experimentation headquarters for the Buitoni company, an international pasta/bakery company that originated in Sansepolcro under the entrepreneurship of Mama Guilia in 1827. The company became internationally recognized after Nestle bought it and enlarged it; its second-largest factory is stationed right here in Sansepolcro. The villa, built in the early 1800s in the neoclassical style, was bought by Buitoni in late 1980s for its new public headquarters--you can see a picture of it on the Buitoni packages (all of them are green, by the way).
The hike was arduous and took us halfway up a mountain, but it was completely worth it--we could see the entirety of Sansepolcro from up there in a stunning panoramic view, the sun glinting off the red-tile roofs and verdant greenery. We took a tour of the casa and saw its experimentation kitchen, and then they served us a plethora of their experiments for lunch. Our professor had told us that it might be only appetizers or light snacks, but it was a full-on meal, with fresh fruit and torte for dessert! Afterwards, a local Italian, Andrea, sang several opera songs to us, and fellow-traveler Stacie followed up with two arias. We then serenaded Andrea and the members of Casa Buitoni with several good ol' American classics ("Johnny Appleseed," "Amazing Grace," and "God Bless America").
The end of our adventure eventually arrived, but homework and classes awaited us. Our two last travelers joined us later in the day, exhausted from their trials and tribulations created by navigating Italian trains and buses.
Italian Prayers
May 20, 2007
Classes began today at 8:30 AM. I am taking 2.5 courses: Core 200 (about Italian life and culture), History 387 (Renaissance and Reformation) and Survival Italian, which is a component of Core 200. The classes were not what I expected--core focuses on the recent history of Italy, including its 50+governments since World War II and its job situation, while history looks at the development of the two movements in Italy and Europe.
At 11:30 I attended my first Catholic mass in the local Cattedrale; unfortunately, I had no idea what was going on because it was all in Italian. Ah, well! The service was beautiful and serious, and the resonance of the bishop's melodic voice, the people's respondent calls, and the chiming bells created a plethora of sounds that whetted the ears' tastes and left them begging for more. The church itself looked very Romanesque in style, with heavy walls, two rows of archways, small windows, and groin-vaulted ceilings. Fading frescos decorated the ceilings and undersides of arches, and beautifully-detailed paintings loomed on the walls. In the left-hand corner of the church is the exalted Volto Santo ("Holy Face"), the 12th-century Byzantine Christ that remained largely undiscovered until about 15 years ago. The elongated fingers and wan face are perfect examples of the Byzantine style, while his shortened torso and legs bring emphasis back to the face.
Homework and napping took up the rest of the day, and Sansepolcro has remained immaculately beautiful since we've been here--no rain, no clouds, no sweltering heat. Let's hope it stays that way!
Classes began today at 8:30 AM. I am taking 2.5 courses: Core 200 (about Italian life and culture), History 387 (Renaissance and Reformation) and Survival Italian, which is a component of Core 200. The classes were not what I expected--core focuses on the recent history of Italy, including its 50+governments since World War II and its job situation, while history looks at the development of the two movements in Italy and Europe.
At 11:30 I attended my first Catholic mass in the local Cattedrale; unfortunately, I had no idea what was going on because it was all in Italian. Ah, well! The service was beautiful and serious, and the resonance of the bishop's melodic voice, the people's respondent calls, and the chiming bells created a plethora of sounds that whetted the ears' tastes and left them begging for more. The church itself looked very Romanesque in style, with heavy walls, two rows of archways, small windows, and groin-vaulted ceilings. Fading frescos decorated the ceilings and undersides of arches, and beautifully-detailed paintings loomed on the walls. In the left-hand corner of the church is the exalted Volto Santo ("Holy Face"), the 12th-century Byzantine Christ that remained largely undiscovered until about 15 years ago. The elongated fingers and wan face are perfect examples of the Byzantine style, while his shortened torso and legs bring emphasis back to the face.
Homework and napping took up the rest of the day, and Sansepolcro has remained immaculately beautiful since we've been here--no rain, no clouds, no sweltering heat. Let's hope it stays that way!
mercoledì 23 maggio 2007
Operation: Orientation
May 19, 2007
The best way to get over jet lag is to get up early and face the day, according to the incomparable professors of Meredith College. I took this advice to heart and, along with fifteen other tired and disoriented students, I got up at 6:30 AM (12:30 AM Eastern Standard Time) and took a walk around Sansepolcro. Dr. Oatsvall took us through narrow cobbled streets as the town woke from its slumber, shop owners sweeping the streets in front of their stores and vespas sputtering to life in all corners. We ended up taking a stroll into the countryside, past ancient and deteriorating villas and lush corn fields. Anghiari sat regally atop the hill in the distance. At the end of the road was a remote corner of the Tiber River (that's right folks, the ancient Tiber that flows through Rome. The same tiber that Marcus Antonius dismisses in Shakespeare's Antony and Cleopatra with a blunt "Let Rome in Tiber melt!"), cool and blue beneath the shady overhang of the trees.
We had a delicious breakfast of yogurt, cereal, croissants, and nutella, and I tried the Italian coffee--the equivalent to five cups of American regular plus a "kick in the pants," as several travelers described it when they tried the drink. Dr. Oatsvall took us to the piazza, the town square, and showed us the basic layout--piazza, internet cafe (where I am now), ATM, cattedrale, and the Pam. The Pam is a local grocery store where you can buy nutella to your heart's consent. Did you know that most Italians do not handle produce in the grocery store by hand? They put on plastic gloves, pick out their items, and measure their weight before buying it. They do not use as many pesticides as we do, so they don't need to wash it as much as we do--besides, who wants to eat fruit handled by half the town?
The best way to get over jet lag is to get up early and face the day, according to the incomparable professors of Meredith College. I took this advice to heart and, along with fifteen other tired and disoriented students, I got up at 6:30 AM (12:30 AM Eastern Standard Time) and took a walk around Sansepolcro. Dr. Oatsvall took us through narrow cobbled streets as the town woke from its slumber, shop owners sweeping the streets in front of their stores and vespas sputtering to life in all corners. We ended up taking a stroll into the countryside, past ancient and deteriorating villas and lush corn fields. Anghiari sat regally atop the hill in the distance. At the end of the road was a remote corner of the Tiber River (that's right folks, the ancient Tiber that flows through Rome. The same tiber that Marcus Antonius dismisses in Shakespeare's Antony and Cleopatra with a blunt "Let Rome in Tiber melt!"), cool and blue beneath the shady overhang of the trees.
We had a delicious breakfast of yogurt, cereal, croissants, and nutella, and I tried the Italian coffee--the equivalent to five cups of American regular plus a "kick in the pants," as several travelers described it when they tried the drink. Dr. Oatsvall took us to the piazza, the town square, and showed us the basic layout--piazza, internet cafe (where I am now), ATM, cattedrale, and the Pam. The Pam is a local grocery store where you can buy nutella to your heart's consent. Did you know that most Italians do not handle produce in the grocery store by hand? They put on plastic gloves, pick out their items, and measure their weight before buying it. They do not use as many pesticides as we do, so they don't need to wash it as much as we do--besides, who wants to eat fruit handled by half the town?
The Tired Traveler
May 17, 2007
Fashion designer. Interior decorator. Makeup artist. Stylist. People telling other people what to wear, how to live, how to look. So why isn't there a job telling someone how to pack? Preparing for my eleven week summer abroad was an arduous task, figuring out which clothes to bring, what to buy, what to wait to buy over there, how much money to take, what prescriptions to fill, how to fit all that stuff in two medium backpacks, etc. It wasn't easy, even with the aid of my mother and sister. However, it was all worth it by the end.
Three flights and a six-hour busride took my luggage and me from Raleigh to Sansepolcro, Italy. We flew over the Apennines in a stunning display of beauty and saw the sun rise over the Atlantic. I slept most of the busride away, but I woke up just as we were driving into Sansepolcro. Rolling green hills with mountains towering in the distance on all sides, verdant gardens surrounding ancient villas, miniature vespas zipping past--I was completely out of my element and in paradise.
Fashion designer. Interior decorator. Makeup artist. Stylist. People telling other people what to wear, how to live, how to look. So why isn't there a job telling someone how to pack? Preparing for my eleven week summer abroad was an arduous task, figuring out which clothes to bring, what to buy, what to wait to buy over there, how much money to take, what prescriptions to fill, how to fit all that stuff in two medium backpacks, etc. It wasn't easy, even with the aid of my mother and sister. However, it was all worth it by the end.
Three flights and a six-hour busride took my luggage and me from Raleigh to Sansepolcro, Italy. We flew over the Apennines in a stunning display of beauty and saw the sun rise over the Atlantic. I slept most of the busride away, but I woke up just as we were driving into Sansepolcro. Rolling green hills with mountains towering in the distance on all sides, verdant gardens surrounding ancient villas, miniature vespas zipping past--I was completely out of my element and in paradise.
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